Der Japaner Dai Koyamada sichert sich die 7te Begehung von Action Directe

Begünstigt durch den Goldenen Herbst herrschen derzeit in der Fränkischen beste Verhältnisse und so wurde die Action Directe (9a) binnen einer Woche gleich zweimal wiederholt. Zum einen durch den Briten Rich Simpson und nun vom Japaner Dai Koyamada, der im Laufe der Jahre schon das ein oder andere Mal in der Route war.

Read about Rich Simpsons sucessful ascent of Action Direct.

About Action, I was pretty lucky to get the 6th ascent to be honest, both me and Dai were very close and the day before my ascent he fell at the very last move which motivated me to get it done the day after. He will go back on Saturday and to be honest I will be surprised if he doesn’t climb it. But it’s always great to hold your own against a world class climber on mutual ground.

I had a real battle with Action the conditions have been bad and it’s been really hard to stay motivated whilst sitting around waiting for it to become better. On Tuesday I finally got some good conditions and took some tries but took a very nasty fall and slammed in sideways into the lower wall, badly bruising my heel and hip bone and also cutting open my leg. So it was hard to once again pick myself up from that and keep spirits high.

On Wednesday I watched Dai trying and he got so so close which gave me more pressure to know that if I didnt do it Thursday he will climb it before me. Thursday morning came and so did the frost, the conditions truly where perfect. I took a warm up go and everything went well, so attempted to climb from the first jug to the end, falling in the very last jump. 10 minutes rest, first redpoint in 35 seconds and 11 moves it was over and I climbed the easy wall to the top.

One year’s hard work successful and so much learnt in the progress. Redpointing is such a funny thing, so so stressful and hard work yet on completion it all feels worth it.

Thanks a lot for your help over the last year or so, you truly are an inspiration for me and I’m so glad to be able to speak about my successes with you.

Begeher der Action Directe:

1. Wolfgang Güllich
2. Alexander Adler
3. Iker Pou
4. Dave Graham
5. Christian Bindhammer
6. Richard Simpson
7. Dai Koyamada

Siehe auch:
www.moonclimbing.com
www.FreakClimbing.com
Der Brite Richard Simpson wiederholt Action Directe
Interview mit Rich Simpson